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POLYBLOCK
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Building with Polyblock
 
BLOCK TYPES

Three types of blocks are used in construction: the 32-inch “standard block”, a “bond-beam block” and a “lintel block.” Bond-beam blocks are made by cutting the webs from between the cores at the top of the block. Lintel blocks are made by cutting the webs from between the cores and the bottom of the block. Newly introduced 12" wide blocks will allow for higher structural loads.

CUTTING BLOCKS

Polyblocks can be cut easily with handsaws, power saws or utility and pocket knives. A three-sided plywood miter box and carpenter’s handsaw help ensure straight and accurate cuts.

CORNERS

Polyblock makes it easy and fast to create corners of any angle. Simply cut the end of the block at one half of the desired angle, apply adhesive to the cuts and butt the two ends together. By using blocks of different lengths, the running bond is maintained. A wooden brace, placed inside and out on each leg and wired together on at least 16” centers vertically as the blocks are stacked, reinforces the corner as the concrete is poured.

BRACING

Although Polyblocks create straight, true walls, bracing is needed to resist wind pressure and hold the wall true after the weight of concrete is added and until the concrete sets. The Polyblock Building System allows for minimal bracing and scaffolding.

WIRING

Empty Polyblock cores can act as wiring chases. A more convenient alternative is to run wiring in a routed groove on the interior face of the block wall. After the wiring is in place, aerosol foam or adhesive can hold the wiring in place per code.

CONCRETE

Grout mix, three eighths inch maximum pea gravel, 3,500-pound, six-inch slump should be specified. Concrete can be ready mixed or field mixed. One cubic meter of cement will fill approximately 26 cores, eight feet high. If every second core is filled, one meter will build approximately 34 running feet of wall, including the bond beam, making field mixing feasible in some situations. Concrete can be pumped or hand poured.

ATTACHING FINISHES

Several methods can be used to attach interior and exterior finishes. When using the Polyblocks without plastic screw strips, a wooden or metal nailing strip, installed vertically on the wall with long nails or screws and extending through the block wall into empty cores at locations where cement is to be poured, is a good system.
If a vertical siding system, such as board and batten, is to be used, the nailing strip system would be installed horizontally, spanning core to core. For a stucco finish, fiber-mesh-reinforced synthetic stucco can be applied directly to the block with excellent results. Masonry veneer can be used by extending the brick ties between courses of Polyblocks into the block cores where they will be imbedded in concrete after the pour. Inside, wallboard can also be installed with adhesive, subject to code.
When using the Polyblocks with the plastic screw strips, the interior and exterior finishes can be attached directly to the plastic screw strips which are located 16 inches on center and are 1.5 inches wide.

PLUMBING

Above grade empty block cores can be used as plumbing chases, but copper fittings are difficult to sweat within the tight confines of the core. Normally, plumbing is handled similarly to concrete-block construction, with plumbing coming up through the floor near the wall and hidden by cabinetry or interior wall framing.

REBAR

Building design, engineering and local building codes will dictate the amount, size and location of all rebar. Seismically active areas will all require rebar; but the amount, size and placement will vary. When rebar is called for in block cores, it should be centered and secured so it remains centered in each core. As rebar is installed in horizontal bond beams or lintels, it should be tied to the verticals about one inch from the bottom of the bond beam.

             
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